KT8230 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Regulator 120VAC 30A Fahrenheit -22~572℉ Heating Cooling for Incubator Brooder Refrigerator Fermenter Greenhouse Reptile

These controllers look physically similar to the Inkbird line of controllers (same front and case, same buttons, same display) but are actually superior in a number of ways;The temp sensor can actually be used in an oven or a freezer! Yes the relay can handle more than 10 amps!Programming is much more intuitive and straightforward. You can adjust start delay, offset, differential and calibrate the sensor itself - very basic munus on the controller that you'll figure out in seconds!If you don't like to see the temperature drift, encase the sensor in a metal shell or blob of epoxy to increase the thermal mass as a kind of 'hardware' hysteresis adjustment - just as putting a thermometer bulb into a vial of glycerine will 'smooth out' the temp readings - same principle.If you work much with temp controllers, thermistors or thermocouples, you get it!A controller is only as good as the sensor and how it is placed/implemented. This is a great controller and it does its job very well.Easy to set, very consistent operation. I bought 3 of these, will buy more! One of ovens (photo) is already the control of this device and it is performing very reliably!They are simply awesome for my industrial control uses of ovens and freezers. Can't be beat for the price point.You want the features that a fancy ABB controller offers? Then buy the Allen Bradley but for everything else, this little brown box will do the job.Two thumbs up!

I bought this model digital thermostat (DT) due to its ability to handle 30amps, instead of the 10amp rating of most other DTs. Reason: my Amana fridge/freezer's starting load (the LRA - locked rotor amps) is 21amps.The easiest way to wire this DT to control a fridge/freezer is simply to add it in-series with the existing thermostat, then set that component to it's coldest setting. (If the existing thermostat is bad or going bad, then just remove it and wire the DT in its place). To do this, first check the old thermostat located inside the fridge and trace its wires (by color) to the back of the unit, where they are probably located behind a removable cover. WITH THE POWER SUPPLY TURNED OFF OR THE UNIT UNPLUGGED, clip ONE wire from the old thermostat, add extension wires (AWG 18 to 14 gauge) to each cut end, then connect these to the switching contacts on the DT. (By doing this, when you eventually decide to replace your fridge, you can simply unhook these extension wires and the DT, rejoin the two cut cable ends and the appliance is wired back to the way it was).Leave the temperature probe of the existing thermostat in-place. Find the wiring portal into the rear of the freezer compartment (you will likely have to pull back some putty sealing the portal) and feed the DT's temperature probe through it, then pull it through from the front. Carefully reseat the putty. You might need to add an extension piece to the probe's wires.After installation, be aware that the DT is measuring the temperature in realtime. Therefore, the digital display will continually fluctuate downward (due to cold air currents inside the freezer), as the temperature drops. The reading will continue to fluctuate once cooling stops and the freezer starts to warm back up to your differential temperature setting. (You'll probably want to get an accurate conventional fridge thermometer and use its readings to tweak the settings of the DT).The real-time and accurate readings from these DTs will really make you aware of what's going on inside your freezer. With older appliances (weaker compressors, worn door seals, etc.), be realistic about the temperature you are trying to achieve, as that can make a big difference to the cooling cycles ... and your electricity bill. For my 20yo Amana, setting freezer cooling to 5 degrees and the differential to 10 degrees (i.e. warm up to 15 degrees) works very well.I use a very crude but effective means of monitoring the ACTUAL operation/cycling of my fridge/freezer, over a period of time ... I simply locate a digital voice recorder behind the unit and let it record the compressor's operation for a few hours; even overnight. Then, using any audio editing program/app, the audio visualization and time marks will show you the exact ON-OFF-ON-OFF cycle times.

This product is controlling a compressor on an old freezer that I have. The display went out on the freezer about a year ago. The controller for the freezer went out Sunday Morning. I bypassed the controller to keep the freezer running as a temporary fix but as the unit is very old and replacement parts are no longer available. I purchased this to control the compressor. The unit is a panel mount which means it needs a Hoffman box or similar to mount it in but once set you can glance at it from across the room and see what the temperature is easily. I used an old analog simpson 388 therm-o-meter to see how close the device is. They read the same temperature so I would say it is accurate also. It is a nice controller for what I am using it for.

This device is different from the other digital temperature devices I have used. This is NOT a plug & play device. You must have an understanding of AC power to wire it and access to male and female plugs/outlets. After spending several hours playing with this device, I finally figured out what it does. It has a high turn on but NOT low turn off setting. In the cooling mode, you set the turn on temp and it shuts off when it goes below that setting. The directions are fairly simple except for the setting of the turn on temp. There's 4 lines after the "setting temperature" that describe how to do this. The big problem is it doesn't tell you it's for the "turn on" temp. After several hours of thinking this was the ambient temp setting, I figured out what it really is. Once I figured that out, it works very well. Almost sent it back

When something is rated at 10 amps, that is the maximum it can occasionally hit. The load should be around 8 amps. If the maximum voltage is 24 volts, that is the absolute maximum it can never hit. Never reverse the polarity.

Bought this to put a Digital Control on a 399k BTU Raypak Boiler. Easy install. Directions are a little confusing. The relay is a dry contact

I use this for an electric smoker and slow Cooker controller. This controller allows me to set an accurate and stable temp for each. Used it in a smoker at 225°F with 5° differential. Using it in slow Cooker set to 175°F with 5°F differential to slow cook a beef roast. This controller is rated for 30A, so more than enough for my needs, most are only 10A which gives you around 1200W which is probably sufficient for most home appliances but this one gives you some extra capacity if needed.